Are you making skincare faux pas? We asked one of the world’s leading dermatologists to reveal all
We asked one of the world’s busiest dermatologists to spill her skincare mantras…
With a social media following of more than 3 million, it’s little wonder Dr Shereene Idriss’ NYC clinic has a two-year waiting list.
Facial rejuvenation expert and dermatologist Dr Idriss is best known as the PillowtalkDerm, thanks to posting skincare videos from her bed.
But she warns us that some of our products are doing more harm than good.
Here, she tells us what we’re doing wrong.
You’re using too much hyaluronic acid
While I don’t think hyaluronic acid is the devil, this hydrating ingredient has been over-hyped and over-used in recent years.
However, the tide is turning on its popularity.
People have been led to believe that you need hyaluronic acid to be in your toner, eye cream, lip balm and more – but this isn’t the case.
I recommend limiting the ingredient to one or two steps in your routine, otherwise you’re risking breakouts and inflammation.
You’re disorganised
Rather than taking your skincare routine day by day, look at it over the course of a week.
Plan out each day, thinking about when you will incorporate the active ingredients for treating particular skin concerns, as well as products such as masks and peels.
When you look back, you’ll notice that you’ve addressed your skin concerns consistently and you’ll really notice the difference.
Your formula is too strong
Expecting instant results from products is a common mistake, and choosing a highly-concentrated vitamin C or retinol won’t always mean you’ll experience better or quicker results.
Let’s say you’re using a potent retinol once a week, rather than using a weaker formula daily.
If your face is shedding and flaking, yet you still continue to use it, you’re doing yourself a disservice.
Instead, use the lightest over-the-counter retinol every night.
All you need is consistency.
You’re overdoing the moisturiser
“Glass skin” is one of the longest-standing trends I’ve seen and involves excessively applying hydrating ingredients to achieve a glowing complexion.
It’s taught people that they should be using multiple hydrating ingredients, but in reality, over-moisturising can cause your skin barrier to break down, resulting in inflammation.
Choosing a moisturiser that’s suitable for you is effective, but you don’t necessarily have to use it every day or all year around.
In humid weather, you will often get enough hydration from your sunscreen alone, but you’ll need to dial things up during dry weather months by applying a thicker moisturiser to your face.
Your timings are wrong
The morning routine should be simple, and get you out of the door.
You shouldn’t exfoliate in the morning, unless you have active acne and need salicylic acid, nor do you need to use chemical peels or retinol.
Wash your face with water – those without acne or oily skin can even skip cleanser – then apply an antioxidant, such as vitamin C to boost the efficacy of your sunscreen.
Follow up with a moisturiser, if needed, then SPF.
Your evening routine should focus on cleaning the day’s grime off your face, so do it as soon as you get home.
After cleansing, apply serum and treatments, as desired, and a thicker moisturiser to hydrate skin through the night.
You’re neglecting SPF
There’s been lots of controversy surrounding chemical sunscreens, meaning people are now trying mineral sunscreens instead.
However, these formulas aren’t as lightweight or easily-absorbed as chemical sunscreens, meaning many are forgoing protection completely.
Misinformation about the danger and toxicity of chemical sunscreens have scared people off using them, but I think it’s just a matter of finding the right one for you.
Get into the habit of applying your sunscreen after brushing your teeth, and apply it year round.
This will serve you well when the weather changes or you travel abroad.
The importance of sun cream in your skincare routine
Dermatologist and skincare enthusiast Andrea Suarez - known as Dr Dray - revealed why you should wear suncream.
The one thing you can do that will make the biggest difference – and this matters for all ages – is protecting your skin from the sun, Andrea stressed.
“The vast majority of external aging is due to exposure to ultraviolet radiation,” she continued, not because you’re “not using some jazzy serum or layering 90 different things on your face everyday”.
“If you’re not doing in your 20s, get on that now.”
But she said the use of sun cream alone doesn’t go far enough. Andrea urged that you also wear sun-protective clothing like broad-brimmed hats and long sleeves, on top of not staying out too long in the sun.
Doing this over your lifetime – and all year, not just during the summer or on sunny days – “will reduce the visible signs of photoageing”, Andrea said.
Those are wrinkles, muddled pigmentation and sagging skin.
The Doctor’s Order
Here’s a peek into Dr Idriss’ skincare routine…
The make-up remover
Bioderma Sensibio H2O Micellar Water, £21
I love Bioderma Sensibio H2O Micellar Water, £21 – it’s gentler and more effective than other micellar products.
The cleanser
Dr Idriss Soft Wash, £30
Dr Idriss Soft Wash, £30, is a game-changer. This gentle jelly cleanser soothes, hydrates and removes most eye make-up without irritation.
The exfoliator
Biologique Recherche Lotion P50W, £86
I think Biologique Recherche Lotion P50W, £86, is effective, but people overdo it. No one needs to use this twice a day. Instead, use it weekly for smoother, clearer skin.
The serum
Aveeno Face Calm + Restore Triple Oat Serum, £15.99
Aveeno Face Calm + Restore Triple Oat Serum, £15.99, is lightweight for year-round use, and great if you want a break from active ingredients.
The moisturiser
Clarins Cryo-Flash Cream-Mask, £53
Clarins Cryo-Flash Cream-Mask, £53, is fab for those who run hot, and makes skin feel firmer in just 10 minutes.
Photography: Getty Images