Lederhosen, steins and bratwurst – how Oktoberfest became what it is today
Every year, six million people flock to Munich for the world’s largest folk and beer festival – Oktoberfest.
The 16-day celebration sees natives and tourists from across the globe descend upon Bavaria to enjoy traditional German food and have an almighty sing and dance – while drinking a whole lot of beer.
But what you might not know is that there was a point when the festival didn’t centre around bratwurst and booze. Hard to believe, I know.
That point was more than two centuries ago at Oktoberfest’s origin.
The first Oktoberfest was a celebration of the marriage of Bavarian Crown Prince Ludwig and Prince Therese of Saxony-Hildburghausen in 1810.
At that time, Bavaria was a brand new kingdom after years as an electorate of the Holy Roman Empire. So, the first Oktoberfest was as much a celebration of national pride as it was a wedding.
The original celebration was a public festival which included a horse race held at Therisienwiese – which is still the home of Oktoberfest today.
Bavarians loved the first festival so much that they wanted more, and the following year the authorities agreed to make Oktoberfest an annual event.
During it’s first five years, the festival centred around cattle markets and horse racing. It wasn’t until 1815 that German beer concessions began – which is arguably what the festival is now most famous for.
Tom Neuhaus, an Oktoberfest expert and professor at the University of Derby, said: ‘Beer has played a central role in the festivities for centuries.
‘It is regarded by many as one of the most important parts of Bavarian culture, particularly as Bavaria has a law dating back to the 16th century that is supposed to guarantee the purity of beer.’
The celebration started to bare more resemblance to the modern Oktoberfest in the mid-1800s as festival-goers were able to ride merry go rounds, sink many a beer and indulge in chicken roasteries, a snack which has become a staple of the tradition.
Jeffery Gaub, a historian, reported that 250,000 litres of beer were poured at Oktoberfest 1835. Some 190 years later, in 2024 there were six million litres consumed. The influence of British tourists, you might say.
One of the most commonly asked questions about Oktoberfest is – why does it start in September?
To that there’s a simple answer, the weather is better.
In the festival’s first few years, celebrators complained about Bavaria’s dim and rainy October weather and pleaded with local authorities to hold the festival a few weeks earlier.
It wasn’t until 1905, however, that the authorities granted Bavarians their wish of a festival beginning in sunny September.
Oktoberfest in the 21st century is steeped in tradition. Germans and attendees from abroad often dress up in authentically German outfits called tracht to celebrate the occasion.
Every year, German cuisine such as pretzels, bratwurst sausages and chicken roasteries are consumed in their masses.
And festivities are always begun at noon on Oktoberfest’s opening day by the Lord Mayor of Munich pouring the first of many beer barrels – one of a heap of customs which haven’t changed for decades.
Alysa Beckner, a festival-goer from Munich, attends Oktoberfest annually. She said: ‘When the mayor taps the first keg and yells “O’zapft is” everyone knows the festival has begun.
‘The festival has stayed the same for years, meaning that it doesn’t expand too much.
‘Oktoberfest is really a wonderful time. It makes me so proud of my traditions and hometown.’
The festival is more than just a 16-day celebration in Munich though nowadays, with countries across the world throwing parties to mark the annual tradition.
This year alone, fans could find over 170 Oktoberfest celebrations in the United Kingdom in cities such as London, Birmingham and Leeds.
Some British adaptations have even started putting their own spin on the festival, selling locally-brewed beer and food.
Will Hatton, who has previously attended the festival in Munich, said: ‘Wherever I have been on my travels, I haven’t been too far from an Oktoberfest celebration.
‘I’m actually in Bali at the moment and found a festival a couple of weeks ago. They had proper pretzels too.
‘It’s actually surprised me that wherever I’ve been on my travels I haven’t been far from an Oktoberfest party.
‘The beer might not be as good in Bali but it’s just as much fun.’
One thing’s for sure, whether you’re a German celebrating your national festival, or Will chugging beers on a Bali beach, Oktoberfest is a joyous two weeks.
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