Local wineries take a ‘Sideways’ glance at Merlot Month
This October marks not only the advent of Merlot Month, created as a backlash to the film “Sideways,” but also the 20th anniversary of that movie.
To commemorate the flood of really mediocre pinot noir that’s been unleashed on the market since then, along with the utter ruination of one of the best grapes out there, film critic Kirk Honeycutt and wine journalist Mira Advani Honeycutt have written a book.
“Sideways Uncorked: The Perfect Pairing of Film and Wine,” purportedly captures the dirt behind some scenes from the movie and delves into the impact it had on society and wine consumption in general. Although its official release date is Nov. 5, the book can be preordered at https://www.searchlightpictures.com/sideways
After “Sideways” was released, merlot was ripped out or grafted to pinot noir at a breakneck pace, while new plantings of pinot noir began appearing in non-optimal locations. Wineries that made a varietally labeled merlot started hiding it in cleverly named blends. People drank cabernet thinking it was all glory to cab, when merlot in many cases was the true shining star. If you follow it, it can lead you to interesting places of discovery.
According to Napa Valley’s Markham Vineyards, a merlot specialist for more than four decades, the grape never truly went out of style. As a nod to the 20th anniversary of “Sideways,” they’ve released a special “Right Side” blend from award-winning winemaker Kimberlee Nicholls, who has been making their wine for over 30 years. Inspired by the 1961 Chateau Cheval Blanc coveted by the movie’s protagonist, Miles, it goes on sale this month for $85.
They also have a brand-new experience at the Markham St. Helena tasting room called “The Right Side of Merlot: Celebrating the 20th Anniversary of Sideways.” This limited-time experience offers guests the opportunity to sample Markham’s finest estate merlots side by side to uncover how climate, soil and elevation create magic in every bottle. Their estate vineyards span from Calistoga to Oak Knoll, and you can really taste the differences among them.
Locally, in the Santa Cruz Mountains area (SCM), you can indulge in some beautiful and proudly labeled merlots from Alamitos Vineyards (from Stag’s Leap, Napa), Assiduous Vineyards (Kells Vineyard, SCM), Bargetto Winery (Regan Vineyard, SCM), Big Basin Vineyards (Coastview, Monterey), House Family Vineyards Estate (SCM), Lexington Winery (Gist Vineyard, SCM), Perrucci Family Vineyards (Regan Vineyard, SCM), Ridge and Tessier Winery (Zayante Vineyard, SCM).
Shoutout to the newly released 2019 Big Basin Vineyards Merlot from Coastview in the Gabilan Highlands at 2,292 feet. It’s 100% merlot and an exceptional rendition of this variety, which is usually planted in the flats but really struts its elegant stuff at higher altitudes. Planted in decomposed granite and limestone, it’s the same merlot that winemaker Bradley Brown has been putting into his high-scoring Altitude Bordeaux style blend since 2015.
Ironic to end with pinot noir, but here’s one with a good cause. Mount Eden just announced the third bottling of their Tanaka Project Pinot Noir, a wine dedicated to the love, talent and devotion of a dear friend who took his life in 2007. Ron Tanaka, an artist and poet who became part of the Patterson’s extended family in 1983, wrote a collection inspired by the mountain titled “The Mount Eden Poems.” For the last three years on World Suicide Prevention Day, the Pattersons have released about three barrels’ worth of commemorative wine from a vineyard site on the estate named in Tanaka’s honor.
The 2021 Tanaka Project Pinot Noir is $95 a bottle and can be purchased at both the Domaine Eden and Mount Eden tasting rooms or online. Twenty-five percent of the purchase price will again be donated to a worthy ally supporting mental health. The Pattersons have donated over $15,000 to date.