[Time Trowel] Global roots of Philippine cuisine

A trowel (/ˈtraʊ.əl/), in the hands of an archaeologist, is like a trusty sidekick — a tiny, yet mighty, instrument that uncovers ancient secrets, one well-placed scoop at a time. It’s the Sherlock Holmes of the excavation site, revealing clues about the past with every delicate swipe.

Are you fond of KBL (kadios, baboy, and langka), a dish that has warmed the hearts and bellies of the Ilonggo for generations? And let’s not forget its Ilocano cousin, binisang (sautéed) kardis. Oh, and how can we not mention the tradition of eating ginisang munggo on Fridays? These dishes feature a key ingredient: legumes. Whether it’s the pigeon pea, kadyos, or mung beans, they’ve become household staples.

But here’s where things get interesting — these humble legumes and even some other ingredients in KBL aren’t originally from the Philippines. They’re the unexpected guests who arrive without an invitation but quickly become the heart of the gathering.

Take the pigeon pea (scientific name: Cajanus cajan), for example. Its roots trace back to the Indian subcontinent, where it was domesticated around 3,500 years ago. Domestication is like plant matchmaking; it’s a process where humans take wild plants and select them for traits that make them more usable — think bigger seeds, better flavor, and the ability to grow without throwing too many tantrums about the weather. It transformed the pigeon pea into a versatile, nutrient-packed legume that could grow in various climates, including the tropical Philippines. With its protein-rich pods and ability to thrive in poor soils, the pigeon pea became a dependable crop, especially in areas where other food plants might struggle. It’s like the legume version of a Swiss Army knife — adaptable, resilient, and always useful.

And then there’s the langka, or jackfruit, another globetrotter in the KBL ensemble. Like the pigeon pea, jackfruit hails from the Indian subcontinent, where it has been grown for thousands of years. Jackfruit trees produce massive, spiky fruits that are not only delicious but incredibly versatile. Whether you’re using the ripe, sweet flesh for desserts or the young, unripe flesh (as in KBL) to add a unique texture to savory dishes, jackfruit brings a little of its exotic origin into every bite.

Now, let’s add a little local flavor to this international legume and fruit affair — the batwan (scientific name: Garcinia binucao), a souring fruit that is endemic to the Visayas. It’s a key ingredient in KBL, giving it that distinctive tart kick. So, with KBL, you’re getting the best of both worlds: introduced plants like kadyos and langka, alongside endemic ones like batwan. It’s like a culinary reflection of the Philippines itself, where a mix of native and introduced elements come together to create something uniquely delicious.

Speaking of ingredients, let’s not forget the kamatis (tomato) that makes every ginisa special. Introduced by Europeans who brought them from their origins in Mesoamerica, tomatoes are another example of a domesticated fruit — yes, you read that right, fruit. These juicy red wonders made their way around the world and ended up being a fundamental part of cuisines from the Americas to Asia. They even gave Italian cuisine its signature tanginess — but that’s a story for another day.

So how did our adventurous pigeon pea and jackfruit make their way to the Philippines? Most likely, they hitched a ride on ancient trade routes. Picture this: centuries ago, ships laden with spices, fabrics, and plants crisscrossed the oceans, connecting India, Southeast Asia, and beyond. The pigeon pea might have cozied up next to mung beans (munggo) in the cargo hold, ready to embark on its culinary adventure. Meanwhile, jackfruit was probably showing off its size and versatility, winning over every sailor and trader who came across it.

Mung beans are another traveler, originally from the Indian subcontinent, just like their pigeon pea cousin. They made their way across Asia, bringing along their versatility and nutritional punch. Today, munggo is synonymous with comfort food in the Philippines, especially when sautéed with garlic, onions, and, of course, tomatoes. Whether it’s munggo or kadyos, these legumes have proven to be adaptable, nutritious, beloved, and with soaring grocery prices, affordable.

Interestingly, we have archaeological evidence of pigeon peas in the Cordilleras, where they grow just about everywhere. In our work in Ifugao, we documented pigeon peas in archaeological contexts, showing that they’ve been part of the local diet for quite some time. It’s like finding an old friend who has been hanging around all along, quietly contributing to the community’s sustenance and culture. This evidence hints at the deep roots (pun intended) pigeon peas have in the region, showcasing their journey from faraway lands to becoming a staple in the mountainous areas of the Philippines. The presence of pigeon peas in these archaeological sites tells a story of how this versatile legume was embraced by local communities, becoming an integral part of their diet and agricultural practices.

The long process of domestication, whether for pigeon peas, mung beans, or jackfruit, is a demonstration of the hard work and ingenuity of our ancestors. Early farmers spent generations selecting and cultivating these plants to create the dependable, resilient crops we enjoy today. It’s easy to take this for granted when we have the luxury of grabbing a bag of munggo or kadyos at the market, or slicing into a jackfruit, but it’s the result of centuries of effort.

This hard work continues with today’s farmers, who are the unsung heroes in our food system. They toil under the sun, adapting to changing weather patterns and soil conditions to ensure that our tables are never empty. And in the face of climate change, the knowledge that our farmers hold is more crucial than ever. Their traditional practices, passed down through generations, may hold the key to adapting our agricultural systems to a rapidly changing environment.

So, next time you’re digging into a bowl of KBL, remember you’re enjoying a dish with a history as rich as its flavor. These pigeon peas and jackfruit have been through the process of domestication, traveled across seas, and found a forever home in Filipino kitchens. Not bad for ingredients that started their journeys on different continents entirely!

And let’s take a moment to recognize that farming is far from a lowly job. It requires a deep understanding of the land, the seasons, and the crops themselves. It’s a science, an art, and a labor of love all rolled into one. Our farmers are the stewards of our food heritage, and, without them, we wouldn’t have these delicious dishes that bring so much joy and comfort to our lives. – Rappler.com

Stephen B. Acabado is professor of anthropology at the University of California-Los Angeles. He directs the Ifugao and Bicol Archaeological Projects, research programs that engage community.