The turtle who died so others could live
They called him Xenios. He was already dead when they found him. He’d been dead for days.
Entangled in a single fishing line, he had panicked, struggling for a surface he would never see again. The divers cried as they released his body, gave him a name to honour his gentle spirit: Xenios, for the ancient concept of hospitality.
It was not a good end. But it became an excellent beginning. Because, in death, this Green turtle launched a movement: a shared promise to protect Cyprus’ gentlest sea creatures. A commitment that goes beyond government objectives and official policies to call directly on those who most love the island’s seas. Project Xenios.
“We launched in 2021, devastated by what was happening to the turtles of Cyprus,” says Daniel Kistler. “Xenios, we knew, was not the first creature to perish this way; he certainly wouldn’t be the last. All too often we hear stories of sea turtles caught in abandoned fishing lines or ghost nets, ripped to shreds by boats and jet skis. And we knew we had to do something. Something that involved the public…”
Along with his partner, Tamara, Daniel is the owner of the Cyprus Diving Centre in Pernera. Swiss by birth, he’s been in love with the island since his childhood visits. And, as a master dive instructor, he feels passionately about its marine life.
“We know so little about our turtles,” he sighs. “There are a lot of organisations that protect the hatchlings, the nests. But few that focus on the older creatures, the adults and especially the sub-adults.
“The eastern Mediterranean has always been a place of safety, especially for Green and Loggerhead sub-adults who feed and grow in this area before heading back out to the ocean. But with tourists feeding them from boats, with over-fishing and pollution, this region is no longer a haven.
“Now, we’re seeing turtles change their natural behaviours: they’ve learnt that engines mean food; they rise to the surface and get cut down by jet skis and propellers. And they’re not equipped to deal with the pollution, the trash, abandoned nets and lines that now litter our reefs.”
On the day Daniel and his divers found Xenios, they went back to the reef and cut hundreds of fishing lines that had become entangled in the rocks.
“It’s an ongoing endeavour,” he adds. “Wherever you find a dive school, there will be instructors teaching their students to remove marine litter – to bring it to the surface and dispose of it safely. And though we know glass bottles and cans that have become a home for smaller marine life must be left in place, for the most part, we take away the trash that endangers the creatures of our sea.
“Even swimmers and snorkellers can do this,” he adds. “Everyone who cares for Cyprus’ seas can play their part, be it removing litter or raising awareness. Or,” he adds, “taking photos of turtles…”
One of the key components of Project Xenios is the cataloguing of the island’s chelonian visitors into a comprehensive Database.
“We can’t protect what we don’t understand. To safeguard these turtles, we need to know where they are, how many of them exist, and the challenges they face. And that begins with photos…”
It’s not an easy undertaking, Daniel admits. Those who want to contribute a photo to the database must be careful not to stress the turtles they’re snapping: not getting too close, avoiding sudden movements, and respecting their space.
“But if we’re careful, these small steps can make a big difference. A database opens up the opportunity to learn more about these creatures, their habits and their needs. And, hopefully, ensure their survival in an uncertain future.”
While Project Xenios has been clearing reefs, raising awareness and protecting marine wildlife since 2021, the database has gained traction more recently.
“We began with our own clients and staff who would bring us turtle photos from their dives,” Daniel explains. “But, in July, we expanded into a Facebook group for the public. We’ve had a fantastic response, especially through email and direct messages – to protect these turtles, it’s sensible not to reveal their current locations in public.”
The database now contains pictures of over 60 turtles; there were 40 submissions alone in August. And each of these provides data that can help protect the creatures. It also transcends region – “turtles know no borders,” says Daniel – and calls upon thalassophiles around the island to send in their photos of turtle encounters.
“Turtles have a unique fingerprint,” Daniel reveals. “The pattern of scales on the side of their head remains almost unchanged from birth!”
The best way to identify a turtle is with a clear photo of both left and right sides. “But again, it’s better to take no photo than to stress these creatures by swimming too close or alongside for too long!”
However, those who are careful in their photographic identification are contributing crucial information: “From this unique pattern of scales, we’ve been able to identify several turtles more than once – turtles who show up one day off Paphos, and the next in the Ayia Napa region.
“It’s thrilling when this happens,” smiles Daniel. “It helps us learn so much about our turtles’ habits. It helps us understand where they go, how they act in different regions, and what areas most need protection. Each sighting adds a piece to the puzzle, helping us safeguard the future of Cyprus’ most gentle sea visitors.”
Daniel mentions Orion, a small Green who has a penchant for biting divers wearing yellow – “he’s learnt the colour of lettuce.” Tammy, who’s shy but curious. And Rolf, who’s been fed so often by tourists or unscrupulous divers that he’s often on the surface, which is unnatural and dangerous behaviour for a turtle.
But it is Xenios who will always be the most important. Xenios, whose heart-breaking fate sparked a public movement. His legacy, though tragic, is one of hope and commitment to the Cyprus’ seas he once called home.