2024’s must-have skincare ingredient promotes firmer, plumper skin – and you’ll find it in your kitchen
Magic mushrooms are rising in popularity, but not in the way you might think – they’re coming for your beauty stash.
Almost anything goes in the beauty industry. Yoni eggs? Sure! Vampire facials? We’re in!
However, unlike many recent trends, mushrooms are far more than a modern fad.
In fact, they’ve been used in beauty and wellness practices for thousands of years.
And now, research is showing just how magic they can be when it comes to treating beauty woes.
So it’s no surprise that many well-known brands are buying into the shroom boom.
GROWTH FACTORS
Glow Hub Super Shroom Range, from £12
“The use of mushrooms in skincare isn’t a new thing. However, there’s definitely a boom in shroom products now, and not just in beauty – we’ve seen it in homeware, art, fashion and design, too,” explains Tiffany Salmon, founder of beauty brand Glow Hub.
Dr Andrew Weil, a pioneer in the field of integrative medicine – who created a mushroom-based skincare range in collaboration with Origins – agrees.
“With the surge in mushroom-based products, we’re seeing more scientific research highlighting their benefits, while increased popularity in medicine and world cuisine has also raised the profile of mushrooms,” he says.
Consultant dermatologist Dr Alexis Granite agrees, saying: “Given the popularity of adaptogens – plants that counteract the impact of stress – and the adaptogenic properties of some mushrooms, attention on these botanical wonders has increased in recent years.”
Tiffany also points to the pandemic hangover as a factor.
“We’re still seeing the impact of that elevated anxiety and the need for a more holistic approach to health trickling down from the wellness industry, so this desire for adaptogenic skincare is only going to grow,” she says.
Finally, as with most trending ingredients, sustainability and ease of access is a big factor, according to Dr Weil.
He says: “With more mushroom varieties being cultivated in western countries, they’re becoming more accessible and cost-effective, which is driving the trend even further.”
BREAKING THE MOULD
Origins Mega Mushroom Soothing Treatment Lotion, £30
Dr Weil began working with Origins on his skincare range, Dr Andrew Weil For Origins Mega-Mushroom Relief & Resilience, almost 20 years ago – it’s now the brand’s bestselling line, with one bottle of Origins Mega-Mushroom Treatment Lotion bought every eight seconds.
“At that time, no one was using mushrooms in skincare products, and I knew a lot about the medicinal properties of them.
“I gave Origins a list of a dozen species to test and some proved very beneficial – and that was the beginning of the Mega Mushroom line,” he says.
Biggest beauty mistakes
Fabulous' Beauty Editor Tara Ledden has shared the do's and don'ts when it comes to beauty.
“No matter how much time and money you spend on your beauty routine, if you’re not getting the basics right, the rest is wasted.
“There aren’t many non-negotiables, but these are the biggest beauty mistakes sabotaging your regime.”
- Not wearing SPF: Sun-damage is the main cause of premature skin ageing, so if you want to keep your skin looking plump and glowing, sun cream is vital.
- Using expired products: Best case, they’re ineffective and don’t deliver the results they promise, worst case they cause irritation and infection. The shelf life of beauty products differ – for example, mascara is usually good for 3-6 months while lipstick can last for 9-18 months. Check the ‘POA’ symbol on the packaging (it looks like a jar and will have a number inside for how many months it’s safe once opened. If you can’t remember when you opened your product, throw it away and start again, marking the month and year with a permanent marker on the packaging.
- Not knowing your undertones: If you’re using make-up with the wrong undertones, it’ll never look natural no matter how much you blend it! An easy trick to work out whether you have cool, warm or neutral undertones is to check the veins on your wrist – if they look blue, you have cool undertones, if they’re green, you have warm and if they’re a mix you have neutral.
- Skipping heat protector: It might feel unnecessary, but much like sun damage on the skin, excess heat is the most common cause of hair damage. So, if you want shiny, healthy hair, or you’re trying to grow it longer, using a heat protection product is key.
- Not washing your face before bed: it’s as simple as this, if you’re not washing your face before you go to sleep, everything that’s been on your skin during the day is sitting there for even longer, clogging your pores and drying out the surface. Any skincare applied on top isn’t going to be effective with a layer of dirt underneath, and you’re probably going to end up with dirty pillows too – yuck!
Fast-forward to 2024, and fungi are springing up everywhere.
Most recently, tech giant Dyson has harnessed the power of mushrooms to create the brand’s first styling product range, Dyson Chitosan.
Dyson Chitosan, from £44
“In haircare, we see less use of mushrooms as an ingredient in comparison to skincare, but some areas that have been investigated include hair strength,” explains Natalie Coleman, head of product development at Dyson.
“Our hair formulas contain a polymer derived from oyster mushrooms – chitosan, our hero ingredient – known for its structural properties. When used in haircare, it can provide soft style hold.”
Tiffany explains the Glow Hub Super Shroom range, from £12, came from the skincare benefits of fungi.
“We wanted to create anti-stress formulas to relax the skin, fighting to protect it from stress damage, which causes dryness, dark spots, dullness, loss of volume, irritation and wrinkles.
“We discovered a variety of clinically tested mushrooms counteract those problems.”
Kora Organics Milks Mushroom Gentle Cleansing Oil, £43
If you need further proof of the trend, Harry Styles’ Pleasing brand launched the mushroom-inspired Shroom Bloom range nearly two years ago, while in 2021 Miranda Kerr released Kora Organics Milks Mushroom Gentle Cleansing Oil, and Queer Eye’s Jonathan Van Ness uses tremella mushroom in JVN Complete Conditioning Hair Mist.
FUNGI WORTH FORAGING FOR
If you thought pronouncing “hyaluronic” was hard, try giving “cordyceps” and “tremella fuciformis” a go.
If that still boggles your brain, you can call them “caterpillar fungus” and “snow mushroom”, respectively.
There are an estimated 4 million types of mushrooms, but only a few have proved their beauty prowess – and you’re unlikely to find them in the fruit and veg aisle.
Reishi
Shiseido Ultimune Power Infusing Concentrate, £37
“Known for its anti-inflammatory properties, this is perfect for calming sensitive skin,” says Dr Weil.
“It can also improve hyperpigmentation and protect skin against pollution,” adds Dr Granite.
Snow mushroom
Botanics Pure Botanicals Snow Mushroom Concentrated Serum, £7.99
“A hydration hero, this mushroom will help maintain your skin’s barrier and keep it moisturised,” says Dr Weil.
“It also has antimicrobial properties and can improve healing, plus it’s rich in polysaccharides for hydration, which are smaller in size than hyaluronic acid, so may be better absorbed by skin,” adds Dr Granite. And it’s much cheaper.
Chaga
Pai Skincare Tri-Mushroom 10% Super-Soothing Booster, £19
“One of the mushrooms used most in skincare, it’s rich in antioxidants, boosting skin health,” explains Tiffany.
“It also contains betulinic acid to boost collagen and elastin production, for firmer, plumper skin,” adds Dr Granite.
Dr Weil says: “Mushrooms like chaga can help even out skin tone and reduce oxidative stress.”
Songyi
Joonbyrd Daydreamer Firming Body Serum, £90
“This supports collagen production, contains kojic acid for brightening, and boasts anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties,” says Dr Granite.
Shiitake
Glow Hub Skin Trip Treatment Lotion, £12
“Not only effective, this mushroom is also widely available. It’s often used for its brightening benefits, thanks to compounds like kojic acid,” explains Dr Weil.
Dr Granite adds: “It also contains selenium, vitamins D and B, and has anti-inflammatory properties.”
Cordyceps
Ouai Scalp Serum, £48
“This contains polysaccharides for skin hydration, antioxidants to counteract pollution and anti-inflammatory properties, and it boosts collagen production,” says Dr Granite.
It’s also great for scalp and hair. “Traditionally, this has been used in supplements for its energising properties. But when applied topically, it helps boost radiance, hydrate and soothe skin,” adds Tiffany.
The best news is, mushroom extracts are well-tolerated and beneficial to all skin and hair types (unless you’re allergic, then steer clear!). Magic, indeed.