Milan fashion houses from Boss to Marras mute the color story for next summer
MILAN (AP) — Milan designers dipped on Wednesday into neutrals and muted tones for next summer — reflecting both a conservative streak in troubled times and a move toward thoughtful production of garments that can anchor any wardrobe.
Boss revamped its trademark suiting with a more relaxed, even deconstructed, vibe that can take men and women from day to after hours. Antonio Marras created joyous silhouettes that harkened to the 1950s, an era long depicted as fun and carefree.
Here are some highlights from runway preview shows on the second day of Milan Fashion Week of mostly womenswear for Spring-Summer 2025.
Boss out of office
Boss designer Marco Falcioni is sending a message to the fashion universe: Get out of the office.
‘’Being the boss means taking time off to rest. Resting is the ultimate luxury,’’ Falconi, senior vice president of creative direction at the German brand, said backstage.
To encourage a better work-life balance in a frenetic world, Falconi has relaxed the business suit, subtracting shoulder pads and jacket linings, and layering generously, for a less button-down vibe.
Trousers for men were at times cut off just below the knee, and for women cuffed to a cropped length. Worried about a summer chill? Then layer with leggings. Drawstring detailing on trousers and blouses gave the garments technical functionality. Women’s jackets wrapped prettily around the middle. Flat or heeled mules finished the looks, for him and her. A neutral color palette was offset by muted shades of green and blue.
Bags were left open, to show off the utilitarian compartments within, for keys, reading glasses and pens. They could be carried alongside a leather racket case or yoga mat strap, letting the world know the workday is done.
Antonio Marras’ tropical fun
Swing dancers and a four-piece saxophone-led band set an upbeat tone at Antonio Marras’ runway show, which featured a summery collection celebrating picture postcard destinations.
Marras took a cue from the life of Italian actress Anna Maria Pierangeli, better known as Pier Angeli, who left her native Sardinia for Hollywood, where she started a romance with James Dean, with whom she often jetted to Acapulco.
Marras’ collection is a celebration of a night out on the town, with the female silhouette defined by full skirts, tight waistlines and exaggerated shoulders. Fringe tops and skirts swayed, and layered grass skirts rustled. For men, boldly shaped suits and more casual silky Bermuda short and shirt combos featured big tropical prints
While putting on a happy front, Pierangeli craved her mother’s approval for her romance with Dean, imploring her mother to “think about Jimmy,” according to an imagined exchange included with show notes. “I adore him, and he adores me.”
Perhaps with this doomed affair in mind, Marras kept the color story mute. Still, he added beading, sequin and shimmering gold and silver accents, a sign of hope.