Restaurant review: Good food, great views at Sausalito’s Suzette

There’s a new arrival on the Sausalito waterfront, Suzette. The French bistro — the latest restaurant by Marin couple Olivier and Susannah Souvestre — offers beloved French dishes and spectacular views of the bay and beyond.

The inside space is compact with some seating at the bar and a few tables. Warning: The booths on the left when you enter are not that comfortable. Pads have been hung to cushion your back but the real issue is that the bench is very short, causing one to sit uncomfortably erect. The nuns at my high school would have approved. Suzette’s tables are closely spaced, inviting conversations between customers. That’s something that adds to the entertainment of dining out.  Yes, I know it can backfire sometimes. But, more often than not, it’s a positive experience.

An expert worked the front of the house. The evening of our visit, one man ran it all. He seated us, brought menus and water, took our orders, delivered our orders, poured more water, inquired if we were enjoying our meal, asked if we wanted another glass of wine, cleared the dishes, took our dessert menu, served dessert and brought and processed our bill. At no point was he offbeat or harried. A professional waiter is a joy to experience. I complimented his achievements and he, with a wink, said it was his first night on the job.

Inside Suzette the walls are white trimmed with some subtle, blue-swirled wallpaper. Mirrors, black and white tile floors and storefront windows facing the bay make it fresh and bright. The Souvestres have been successful in creating spaces that wrap people in a French Mediterranean fantasy. Before opening Suzette, they had Marin’s Le Garage, then L’Appart Resto and Fast Food Français (F3). Currently, they operate both Zalta and Suzette in Sausalito as well as their Alamere Spirits company.

Suzette is open all day, but here we are concerned only with dinner. The menu is composed of standard bistro fare.

We began with the Soupe Á L’oignon Granitée ($16) and Pâté De Campagne ($16). The French onion soup was bubbling over the sides of its white ceramic bowl. The cheese-crusted crouton floated on top. The soup was mahogany brown with caramelized onions, and it was good and gooey but a little too sweet as if the caramelizing process of the onions had been aided by a bit too much sugar.

A good-sized slab of the rough, country-style pâté was served on a white plate with a blue line and “Suzette” embossed below the rim. A little bundle of frisée, several cornichons, a small mound of seeded mustard and four half slices of toasted country bread were ample for two to share if ordering other items. The coarse texture and seasoning of the pâté were perfect.

The menu offers two styles of PEI mussels: classic Moules Marinières ($22) and Moules Romesco ($24). We ordered the romesco-based one. Plump mussels were steamed open in white wine and then the romesco sauce was added to the pot. Romesco — made from grinding together roasted peppers, almonds and garlic with tomatoes — is a Catalan sauce with many uses. We ordered some of the Pan-O-Rama batard ($6) to soak up all the delicious liquid and capture every morsel of the sauce.

There is a limited list of beers and a more extensive list of French wines by the glass and bottle. Befitting a bistro, the wines are reasonably priced with glasses between $12 and $17 with the exception of a couple of the bubbles. Bottles of wine are mostly priced between $46 and $57.

For my main course, I ordered the Duck Confit and Pommes Campagnardes ($29). The dark brown sauce covered the leg that straddled smashed, roasted potatoes and puddled on the white plate below. I was excited to take my first bite, curious what the smoked kalamata olives and shallot confit sauce would bring to the dish. I was surprised by my first bite and took a second. It was quite sweet. Now perhaps my palate was misbehaving since I had also found the onion soup sweet but my companion agreed with me. For me, country food is rustic and earthy with deep flavors. Campagnardes roughly translates as countryside, which led me to search for those flavors. Perhaps a sweet-and-sour gastrique had been used in finishing the sauce. Aside from the sweetness, the duck meat and potatoes were nicely cooked.

An attractive plate was put before my friend. The Poulet Rôti ($28), half a roasted chicken, was propped on a mound of English peas cooked with ramps and bacon. A slice of lemon miraculously stayed perched atop the chicken. Beautifully roasted until golden and moist, the chicken was delicious. Ramps are not often seen on menus on the West Coast. They are hugely popular for those who forage on the East Coast and are a harbinger of spring there. They are a type of allium with a strong onion-garlic smell and flavor. My friend thought the peas needed to be cooked a bit more.

There were three desserts that night: Chocolate Mousse, Crème Brûlée and Rhurbarb Strawberry Flan. The Mousse ($10) was just the perfect ending to our French dinner.

Suzette proves that good food with great views can exist — especially so when supported by outstanding service.

Ann Walker is a freelance food writer. Email her with suggestions, comments and questions at ijfoodwalker@gmail.com.

Suzette

Address: 633 Bridgeway, Sausalito

Phone: 415-324-7070

Website: suzettebistro.com

Cuisine: French

Noise level: Moderate

Seating: Inside and outside

Liquor selection: Not a full bar

Vegetarian dishes: Yes

Vegan dishes: Yes

Gluten-free selection: Yes

Parking: Street and limited lot a few doors north

Dog-friendly: Outside

Reservation: Waitlist

Hours: 8 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. daily

Prices: $6 to $36

Summary: French bistro on the Sausalito waterfront.