TasteFood: A little salt makes any dessert – like these Pecan Shortbreads – better
A hit of salt is a key ingredient in sugary desserts. As enticing as sweet confections are, an abundance of sugar can be cloying, leaving the palate searching for that extra something to balance the sweetness. Salt is the answer.
A little salt disappears into desserts, helpfully reducing any bitterness or sourness. But you don’t always need to be modest: In some desserts, an extra kick of salt — where it is notably detected — not only tames the sugar, but enhances umami. Umami is that difficult-to-describe taste sensation that is considered the sixth taste. It adds a deep, savory and rich element to food, working in harmony with the ingredients.
In the case of these sugary caramelized pecan bars, the sensation of umami accentuates the burnished caramel topping and toasty nuts and complements the buttery shortbread. The flavor is balanced and moreish, encouraging second (and third) helpings. If desired, double the recipe and bake in a 9-by-13-inch baking pan.
Pecan Shortbread Bars
Makes about 16 small squares
INGREDIENTS
Crust:
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup rice flour or cornstarch
1/3 cup confectioners’ sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 cup cold unsalted butter, diced
Filling:
3/4 cup (12 tablespoons) unsalted butter
2/3 cup packed light brown sugar
2 tablespoons honey
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons heavy cream
2 cups chopped pecans
Sea salt flakes, for sprinkling
DIRECTIONS
Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter an 8-inch-square baking pan and line with parchment.
Make the crust: Combine the AP flour, rice flour, confectioners’ sugar and salt in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse once or twice to blend. Add the cold butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse sand.
Dump the mixture (it will be dry and crumbly) into the prepared pan and press to form an even layer. Transfer to the oven and bake until the edges of the crust are golden and the center is just set, 18 to 20 minutes. Transfer to a rack and cool.
Make the filling: Combine the butter, brown sugar, honey, vanilla and salt in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Let boil for 1 to 2 minutes, then whisk in the cream until smooth. Add in the pecans and stir to combine.
Evenly spread the filling over the crust. Transfer to the oven and bake until the filling is bubbling and caramel in color, 18 to 20 minutes. (It will still be wet.) Transfer to a rack and sprinkle with sea salt flakes. Cool completely. The filling will firm up as it cools.
Cut into bars or squares. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 4 days or freeze for up to 3 months.
Lynda Balslev is a San Francisco Bay Area cookbook author, food and travel writer and recipe developer.